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07-19-2009, 09:33 AM
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#1
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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Elec/propane line supports
Two of the plastic supports that keep the electric/propane lines to the kitchen slide from mangling have broken. One is fixable, but the one below the refrigerator (front of kitchen slide) is destroyed beyond repair. Got a replacement support, but the holders (that slide on the support) are also broken. When I got the new support, were the holders supposed to be included? All I got was the long flat plastic piece that connects to the frame/slide. And the loopholes on the holders have no separation--looks like they were slid onto the line at assembly, then the plastic support added.
Any ideas? Originally, the plastic was bolted to the frame on one end and to a bracket that hangs from the slide floor--and from the pieces that are left, it would seem the original was put on so that there was an "S" bend when the slide came in instead of a single bend--and the new plastic has an aluminum pole to pivot on that wasn't on the original.
Probably there is a way to fix this that someone has already figured out?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Joe
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2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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07-19-2009, 10:48 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 857
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Joe,
Replaced mine a few years ago when it broke. Same deal as you describe. Just screwed the frame side as previous (cut off the mount on the plastic strap) and on mine, its also screwed to the slide side as well.
Now it just broke again after 2 yrs right in the center. I did a quick splice repair with a chunk of the old one I kept. Will make a new one later when I have time out of Galv Metal (painted). Buddy of mine did that and its much better than the plastic crap they put in. Still flexible enough.
Bill
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07-19-2009, 11:56 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
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As far as threading through the holes is concerned you are either stuck with breaking the line down, re threading it or using something like zip ties through the holes to hold the lines. You might also try some adele clamps those are the loop clamps over the hose that are secured with a screw to whatever you are hooking the lines to.
The plastic they use is a pretty cheesey operation.
__________________
Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
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07-19-2009, 01:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Springfield, Il.
Posts: 655
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I went to the hardware store and purchased a set of piano hinges, cut them to length, and replaced the plastic with the hinge.
Going on two years now and haven't had any trouble again.
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Ponch
S.O.I.T.C. Central Division
2007.5 3500 HD GMC dually
Mobile Suites 2005 36CK3 #2307 w/ auto levelers/ phase 2
Air Safe Hitch
HD TV in the basement and living room and bedroom
HD MOTO SAT Auto Ant on roof
pressure pro
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07-19-2009, 07:11 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 119
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I used the same repair method as Ponch. I found 6" heavy duty nickel plated door hinges at Home Depot. Installed these about 2 months ago and so far have not had any rust issues as they are also weather resistant coated. Also used stainless steel screws on the frame side and stainless bolts, nuts and washers on the plastic strap end.
Talked with several DRV owners at the rally in Goshen and that also used door hinges as opposed to replaciing the entire strap. I also heard that this is the method that allot of dealers and RV repair shops recccommend since thes straps will continue to break at the attachment points from wear if there is no pivot point.
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Rick and Janice Binns
2006 MS 32TK3, Mor/Ryde Pin Box and I.S., Auto Level-Up
2012 Ford F450 6.7 L Diesel, air bags and 25K Reese Signature hitch (factory installed)
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07-19-2009, 09:25 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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line supports
Thanks for the suggestions--my biggest problem is how to get the lines held to the strap, since 2 of the 4 holders are broken also. The hinge idea is a good solution for the pivot, and the clamps I will look into.
Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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07-19-2009, 10:23 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 73
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Thumbs up here for the hinges also. I had one of the plastic supports break shortly after I bought mine. I used brass hinges at the frame. I also did the other one before it got a chance to break. Two years later, still working good.
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1997 U320 Foretravel 40ft
Ron & Donna
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07-20-2009, 01:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 104
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Broken Plastic Supports
Did the same repair as posted. Installed piano hinges.
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2007 Elite Suites
2011 F350 4X4 Diesel
King Ranch Crew Cab
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07-20-2009, 02:00 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: New Palestine, Indiana
Posts: 133
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As far as the holders go, I would pop a couple of holes in the plastic "web" and use tywraps to keep the cables bundled to the webbing.
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Randy, Eileen and Maggie(Beagle)
2007 Select Suites TK3 #3117
2006 Ford F-350, CC, SWD
Pullright Sliding Hitch,LCD Mounted in Storage Door
Trailair Auto Level Up with Remote
Lippert Under Chassis Storage
Pressure Pro, Garmin 660
Winegard Direct TV Travler Sat. Dish
Rearview Camera, Water Softner
New Palestine, Indiana :)
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07-20-2009, 02:03 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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tie wraps
sr...thanks to you and Motor31 for suggesting this. If I get the 'web' on ok, then will use this to hold the lines.
Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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07-21-2009, 12:54 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
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Wingnut and any others using zip ties, make sure you use a method of securing that does not allow for chaffing of the lines. If you just use one tie through the holder and the line, the line will rub against the zip tie and cause wear. Use about 3 zip ties. One around the line alone, one through the holder and a third that goes between the two other zip ties. That puts the wear on the ties and not on the line. You can then also tighten the ties around the line to prevent shifting while you are moving. Frankly it's a better system than what they used at the factory that allowed movement of the line in relation to the holder. A hole in the propane line is not a good thing.
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Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
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07-21-2009, 10:19 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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electric, propane lines
Nor is a worn electric line--found it the hard way. Guess the cord had been rubbing against something since the webbing broke--got a pretty good tingle while trying to figure out a way to mount the replacement webbing. I cannot figure how to use the replacement--the original was screwed to the frame pivot-point forward. The slide side connection had the pivot point facing rearward. Best I can tell, when the slide came in, the webbing had to double bend (S shape). Both ends were screwed to the frame or slide--the replacement webbing has an aluminum pivot that the original did not have (the other 2 webs on the trailer have the alum pivot). There is no way I can see to mount the alum pivot rod--nothing but the slide floor to bolt it too--and the slide floor is very thin.
This type of line support sucks big time for being done correctly--no way can you expect plastic to continue to bend in the same place and not come apart. I have the hinge-to-the-frame figured out, but the other end has me very confused--will continue to mess with it, maybe I'll find an MS on my upcoming trip to look at.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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07-28-2009, 05:20 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: fultiming
Posts: 38
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Do any of you have pictures. I have one about to go but I am at a loss to understand where you are putting the hinge or how you are replacing the plastic. Sorry I am a little dense.
Kent
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2004 Volvo VLN630
2007 36 RS3 Mobile Suite
2007 Suzuki SX4 behind the 5er
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07-29-2009, 04:56 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Qc. Canada
Posts: 206
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Hi, in response to the broken plastic support I decided to do this:
If you click on that pic it will take you to an album of 6 pics explaining in a little more detail just what I did.
It works very well, it is much stronger than the original system, and because I have the electric & gas lines sheathed, and anchored, it should be a long term fix.
Rick
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2007 Carriage ROYALS INTERNATIONAL MONARCH 38
no truck yet…but looking
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07-30-2009, 11:42 AM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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line support
diesel-gypsy...
Thank you for the pictures--looks like I have found the solution to my problem. Just need to get back home and work off your pics.
Joe
__________________
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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