Replacing the windows

**wingnut60** · 05-14-2010, 10:30 PM

Finally got around to starting on my 7 windows--elected to try the tall, narrow one on door side at rear. First step: remove the rubber gasket (this would be the glazing on an old wooden house window) that goes completely around the upper section. Had a friend push at several places from the inside and out it came, no problem. Then had to make a decision what to do about the silicone caulk left in place where the window sealed to the frame--decided to try to get it all off and it was quite a chore. Finally got where it seemed clean enough to apply the 'rope' caulk Hehr supplied all aound the frame. This is a tricky deal because it is so thin and sticky--if you ever let it touch itself, that part is useless. Will be easier as I learn to work with it. Window fit back in just fine and I replaced the gasket with the new one sent also from Hehr. Time: about 1 hour but most because I was scared to do anything fast. BUT, the window also came with the lower crank-out section and I decided to replace it also. That was a lot harder than the upper glass--even tho it comes with its own sub-frame. Big learning curve here, and I made the decision not to do any more of the crank sections til all the uppers are done. Went to the rear window on the slide (behind the recliners) and repeated the removal--easily done this time, even tho the glass is larger. Made a mistake thinking both windows on the slide are same size and chose the wrong one first and got it part-way in and had to back it out--it was too wide--and now had lots of the sticky rope caulk on it--this began to resemble a tar and feather party, but finally got it out and set aside. Redid the caulk area and put the correct window in--it seems to be slightly shorter in height than the original and there is a slight gap between the upper edge and the new gasket. Solution will be to fab some small spacers to raise the pane further off the bottom slot. There are already 3 spacers in the slot, but each needs to be about twice the thickness (height) to move the pane upwards where it sits in the slot. Total time so far, about 3 hours. My friend had to leave, so left the other replacements for later. The clear windows are really nice to look thru compared to the cloudy ones. And some good news--had a cloudburst this morning and nothing leaked.
I don't know what other windows require the frame replacement--mine are strictly the glass panes and the frames stay in the wall. If I did this for a living, could easily get one done in about 30 minutes--and the lower small crank parts are harder to get out/in than the larger glass panes only.
When I start on the next one, will take some pictures and post, if I figure that part out.
Joe

Okie · 05-15-2010, 01:29 AM

Great info Please keep it coming. I am going to have to do that to mine one of these days.

Okie

golf_bears · 05-15-2010, 07:44 AM

wingnut60

Sounds like you had some fun!!! Good explanation also. Would like to see the pictures as I'm about ready to replace my rear window. It's sitting in the garage still in the shipping crate. Haven't hade the courage to open the crate and start the job. I'm sure your pictures would really help.

Did you need to use any special tools to get the job done?

Take care.

keithandpenne · 05-15-2010, 08:14 AM

Joe,

Over the last couple of years, I have now replaced all of our windows except for the ones with the sliding vents. So far, no problems with any of the 4.

A few things I have found is that if you can work early in the morning before the sun gets on the window area that your working on, the new black glazing seal will not "go stringy" and is a lot easier to work with. Once the sun hits it, it's a mess.

Another is using a sharp edge putty knife will make removal of the old glazing a lot quicker. Some of ours had silicone and others had the black sealant. I also use the end of the handle to "roll" the new seal back in.

When removing the glass, watch out for the white shims along the side and top. These locate the glass in the frame and can fall out if not careful. Count them before removal of the glass so that you can make sure they are all there when you put the new glass in. On the first one I did, one had gotten under the glass and would not let the glass seat in the bedding. I had to remove the glass, re-clean the frame and do it again. Hehr had sent extras along with new bottom shims as some of ours had compressed so that I had the gap at the top like you mentioned. The new black tube shims took care of that and I would highly recommend using new bottom ones every time.

When putting in the rubber seal gasket, I have always used new. Take care to not stretch it as you install as it will shrink over time and pull away from the ends or out of the radius corners. I always start at one end, work it up, around the corner, across the top and back down. I try and cut it a half inch long and work the extra in so that it does not pull away on the ends and so far, none have pulled. Some of the Hehr assembled windows had shrunk nearly an inch.

Also, when ordering the windows, ask and Hehr will send the vent windows with the frame installed which makes the swap a snap. Just open the window, pull the circle clips and pins, swing the window up just past 90 degrees and the entire vent will un-hook andslip off. No need to remove any screw. Installing the new is a little difficult to "re-hook" but once you get the hang, it goes easy.

Good luck with the rest Joe and for anyone else that is looking at fogged windows it is not difficult to do but you will need the aid of a friend to help push out the old glass and on the big windows lift in the new.

**wingnut60** · 05-15-2010, 11:30 PM

Golly, Keith, you gonna be back here soon? Would like to hire you to do them..........
I did not see any new spacers, nor do I have any side-to-side to locate the pane. Putting them back on the old spacers--and that has not worked on one on them--trying to figure out what to do for new ones. Where were the ones that Hehr sent you?
Joe

keithandpenne · 05-16-2010, 09:32 AM

Joe, this is your lucky day!!!

We will be driving up to Burleson on Tues and be there for about a week. I will bring some spacer/shims I have left.

If you need a hand, I may be able to help. We are helping our daughter and family move so don't know what my schedule will be for sure.

I'll send you a pm with my cell number.

Keith

**wingnut60** · 05-16-2010, 10:17 PM

Got all but the picture window finished today...not a fun way to spend the Sunday afternoon/evening. But learned a lot and took some pictures--don't hold you breath for them, 'cause I'm not very good at posting them--will try in about a week to get them up.

Thanks to Keith for the hint on the crank windows, that really simplified that part of the changeout. Keith, couldn't wait for you to get here as my time is short due to business and upcoming trip. Had to go ahead today. Most of the windows want to sit too low in the frame due to the old shims, and I made some out of 1/4" square stock wood--may still have to go back and redo couple of them if a leak develops. Thanks for the offer, very generous of you.

All-in-all, not really too bad a job. Kind of tedious getting the old caulk out/new caulk in. But the windows look great. Big difference in the construction of the old vs new ones--no metal strip around the inside of the panes.

Joe