Door side slide broken!

rverdlm · 05-16-2011, 08:45 AM

Our door side slide on our '05 38RL3 made a popping noise when it started to go out and then the front end (by the door) was about 2" from completely out. It seemed that the pinion gear on the rear (by the hydroulic ram) had jumped a couple of teeth. I've taken it apart and found that the brass bearings that carry the pinion gear shaft are completely gone. This allowed the pinion gear to drop away from the rack and jump a couple (several) teeth. My question is has anyone else had this happen? If so did you then replace all the bearings or just the failed one? Any help will be appreciated!

**wingnut60** · 08-31-2011, 05:36 PM

Been several months since this posting--any suggestions? Sounds like what has just happened to my '05 TK3.
Joe

rverdlm · 09-01-2011, 07:42 AM

I replied to your PM.

billr · 09-01-2011, 08:29 AM

May also be a sheared pin on either end of the shaft. It will allow one end to move and not the other. Just another idea in case the bearings are ok in yours.

**wingnut60** · 09-01-2011, 08:45 AM

Dave,
Got the PM--thanks.
billr,
Will be getting into the belly cover today and see what has happened--thanks.

Joe

Gemstone · 09-01-2011, 09:32 AM

Dave....don't be so bashful....what was the problem and what did you do to fix the problem ?

Regards
Gemstone

**wingnut60** · 09-01-2011, 11:11 AM

Dave,
I have uncovered the front pinion area--popping noise, but shear pins ok. Seems the pinion teeth might not be in full contact with the rack teeth?
The slide will come in all the way, but not go out all the way--sounds like your situation--but it was the bushing in the REAR assembly?
How did you actually decide which end was the problem?
Thanks,
Joe
Any other ideas out there? Next item is to uncover the rear assembly...

rverdlm · 09-01-2011, 06:52 PM

Here is what I sent to Wingnut60. I didn't make it a general post because when I first posted about the issue noone seemed interested.

Yes, I fixed it myself. What I did was to jack up the slide by blocking under the outside end of the slide carrier and then jacking it with a bottle jack. This takes the weight off the outer roller. I then removed the roller assembly. This requires that you cut a hole into the belly cover and then remove the 1/4" bolt that holdes the cross shaft and the 2 bolts that hold the roller in place. I then disassembled the roller assembly and found that the 2 brass bearing bushings were totally gone. I then went to an electric motor repair shop and bought a peice of bronze bearing stock which I carefully cut in 2 and then pressed it into the end plates. I did this by heating the end plates and freezing the bearing stock. I then just reassembled everything. Total cost 3 bucks!!! You can also buy a new assembly from Lippert for something over $150. if that makes you more comfortable. Sorry I didn't take any pictures.

rverdlm · 09-01-2011, 06:58 PM

It sounds exactly like what I had. The way I determined which end had the problem was by removing both roller and gear assemblies. Mine was on the rear (drive end). After you remove the pin (actually a 1/4" bolt) you can turn the shaft with a wrench to extend the other end completely. It's very unlikely that the 1/4" bolt will shear since I don't think it is the weak link in the whole assembly.

rverdlm · 09-01-2011, 07:01 PM

A little more info; when the bearing goes away it allows enough slack in the system that the pinion gear can jump teeth.

**wingnut60** · 09-02-2011, 12:22 AM

That might be what is happening to mine--when the slide gets out about halfway, the weight is beginning to lift the rack away from the pinion teeth and the teeth aren't engaging everytime.
Guess I will remove both assemblies and check the bushings.

Again, thanks. It is very helpful to hear from someone who has done the actual work.

Joe

Motor31 · 09-02-2011, 10:39 AM

Given the description, it sounds like the brass bearing bushings are just solid brass cylinders being used as "needle bearings" or rollers in a cup. Is that correct?

**wingnut60** · 09-02-2011, 11:07 AM

I haven't removed the rollers yet, but I am expecting a bushing like the ones in the spring eyes on the regular trailer suspensions--just a brass wear bushing that is softer than steel-on-steel.
Dave (rverdlm) has done this changeout already and has been a big help on what to look for. I hope to get pics while I do this and post, but don't get your hopes up...
Joe

rverdlm · 09-02-2011, 08:35 PM

They are actually bronze bearings just like are in most electric motors. That's why I was able to go to a motor repair shop to get the bronze bearing stock for the replacement. They are made from sintered broze and are oil impregnated. I'm not sure that roller bearings woiuld work in this situation because of the small size and the fact that it's not exactly in a clean environment.