Can I manually adjust my neverlube self adjusting brakes

stanleyz · 03-27-2017, 08:59 PM

So in a day or two I'm gonna take off a hub and check how the brake pads look. I suspect a problem but I'm not sure. My brakes seem weak but I can't check voltage with the Ford wiring system because the brake controller won't send a signal until 5 or 8 or something miles per hour. When I hook up and do a pre trip check by squeezing the controller I get just a bit of drag but I don't think I've ever had more with this truck. The other clue is that front pads on the truck were very worn at 35,000 miles. So if the pads look OK can I manually adjust them without fouling up the automatic adjusters? Thanks for your response.

**wingnut60** · 03-27-2017, 09:15 PM

If the manual controller won't produce real drag at slow speed, either your shoes need adjusting or they are just plain worn out. The manual control is not speed proportioned, or at least not on the 9s and 10s.
Yes, they will manually adjust--there is a star wheel like the old car brakes. It is suggested that each wheel be jacked up and the brake adjusted til it almost won't move by hand, then back it off til it frees up. A little drag noise is ok.
If they prove to be really worn, you might consider replacing the entire assembly, backing plate and all. Pretty reasonable from eTrailer or Eastern Marine.

stanleyz · 03-28-2017, 08:19 AM

Im absolutely sure the ford controller wont send voltage until truck is under way. I am pretty sure that is true even when using the squeezer. My 08 was not that way. What you suggest is my plan. But if i pull a hub and find it to look ok with adaquate meat on the shoes can i just hang it back on and adjust the brakes like it didnt have the self adjusters and if i do and have a good road test should they stay adjusted?

**wingnut60** · 03-28-2017, 09:37 AM

Unfortunately, the self-adjusters only adjust when applied backing up--which doesn't happen often enough with a trailer--and they won't keep tightened. They have to be adjusted by hand. I had them done on the '05 and it made a huge difference. The mech said there was plenty of lining left, but they were new axles/brakes 2 years back at the time.
If you are getting a bit of a drag using the manual lever, then the brakes are working, just not adjusted, or worn out. After all the years of use, might be time to have a mech pull them all, clean everything, check magnet condition/shape, drum for gouging, and adjust. I am at the point in my life that I no longer enjoy doing that type of work, so I have it done.
Over 10 seasons of use, the electric brakes on the '05 were a constant source of concern, and I lost complete use of them several times until I completely rewired the junction box in the pin box. That might be your first check--are all the wire nuts tight and sending power to the brakes?
And the Ford IBC was always "working" according to the Ford techs that looked at it--remembering that they are auto mechs, not trailer brake techs...
Joe

Cummins12V98 · 03-28-2017, 11:50 AM

stanleyz

It would help to fill in your public signature.

I am questioning if you have disk or drum brakes? I have not heard of neverlube bearings on drums.

Stripit · 03-28-2017, 03:59 PM

I had them on my trailer, nevr-lube and drums.

**wingnut60** · 03-28-2017, 05:04 PM

Pretty standard OEM on early 8k axles...had them on my '05

stanleyz · 03-28-2017, 07:42 PM

I'm trying to keep a low profile, just kiddin. I'll see if I can add more info, But I do have drum never lube.

Joe, I was in them about three years ago. Got a "wiring fault" message from my computer. Took a while to find it but I rewired everything then and had a magnet lever come loose on one wheel. As I recall the pads seemed skinny to me but whoever I talked with at Lippert was happy with what I had when I measured them. I wanted to know what you just told me about adjusting them. Funny thing is I swear the literature for the neverlube says they DO NOT need to be backed up to adjust. It got my attention at the time because all self adjusting brakes I've ever seen do. But if they do then they probably need adjusted because i go to extremes to avoid backing up. I'm gonna open one or two up tomorrow then I'll know. thanks for the input as always.

**wingnut60** · 03-28-2017, 09:12 PM

I believe I have a new magnet--if you want it, will send it to you.

stanleyz · 03-29-2017, 08:13 AM

Let me clean up this thread a bit. If you are following this looking for info please know my trailer has 7000 lb axles with DEXTER never lube hubs and drum brakes. The brake shoes are big 12 1/4X 3 3/8 shoes. I'll add more when I know it.

Stripit · 03-29-2017, 09:28 AM

I found just about every time I pulled the wheels and drums to inspect brakes the small clip used to hold the magnet in place was missing, no parts seen anywhere in that drum. I went to the rv store and bought a bag of them and would replace them as I found them gone. Brakes worked as they should all the time, clip or no, but made it easier to reassemble when I had the clip in place.

stanleyz · 03-29-2017, 04:21 PM

So, you're confident the brakes work without the clips. I thought that was possible but one magnet was worn in a way that tells me it was sitting caddy waampus, (that's southern for crooked) in the hub. Your theory being that the magnets don't have room to come all the way off the lever even without the clips. That would help explain how I've been driving without knowing I had no trailer brakes. I like it, but I'm gonna change the magnets anyway, they look pretty worn, one has the wire wrap showing. Now, tell me where the clips go.

Thanks for that information, it is very helpful.

If you are following this thread to learn about checking and changing hubs or brakes I'm gonna start a new thread with pictures when I get this done. Look for it under stanleyz.

Willym · 03-29-2017, 04:55 PM

I had self adjusting brakes as part of an upgrade to 8k axles on my old Landmark.These were Lippert brakes, but a straight copy of Dexter's as far as I could tell. You don't need to be backing up for them to adjust, but you do need to apply the brakes hard to get full shoe movement ii order to move the pawl that pushes on and turns the ratchet. When my axles were new, the brakes were hopeless. I found that the adjusters were set way back, and adjusted them by hand. IIRC there are two access holes in the back plate for this. You can tighten them easily with a regular adjusting tool, or a flat blade screwdriver. However, you need another thin tool to release the ratchet pawl so that they can be loosened. When the drum is off, you can play with the lever that operates the shoes and see how the adjuster works. When I did my annual brake and bearing inspection, I had to loosen the shoe adjustment so that the drum would come off easily and needed the two tools.

Stripit · 03-29-2017, 05:02 PM

I first found the clip issue on a Alfa I had, terrible brakes, (smaller than the MS) good thing I had the International for stopping power. When I pulled those drums the magnets fell out, the drums were scored from the magnets not seating on the surface they grabbed and it tore the wiring on the magnets. Replaced everything on all six wheels at that time. The MS had 7,000 axles with the Magnum larger surface brake. The little clip goes right in the center of the magnet to keep it from traveling too far outward, and keeps it in place when the drum is removed.

stanleyz · 03-29-2017, 06:55 PM

I'm just trying to figure out where the clips go lol. Actually I have that same setup, 7000 axles with 12 1/4 by 3 3/8 brakes. I don't know if the magnets were off the lever or not. By the time I could see them they were hanging by the wire but they may have come off when I moved the drum away from the lever. One magnet sure looks funny, it is worn in a very strange way. The other one looks like normal wear. Both clips were gone.

I have to say that if my brakes were working they weren't working very hard. The trailer is 12 years old and I've towed it a good bit. The brake primary shoes look like new with very little wear. I destroyed the front pads on my f350 in 38,000 miles the last two trucks I towed with went well past 50,000 and did not wear nearly as far. And when I start out and squeeze the brake controller to test the brakes I can barely feel the trailer grab.

I take your point about the adjusters. The Lippert web site now describes their self adjusting brakes as "forward adjusting". I don't know if that's a recent change or not. The Dexter site describes their's only as self adjusting "during normal driving". Not sure what that means. I haven't gone out to look but if there are two access holes, then at the end of the runout on adjustment i'd just have to take something and push the adjuster off the wheel and back it off a turn or two. Sounds like a plan to me.

Stripit · 03-29-2017, 07:34 PM

Her is a listing for those tiny clips http://shop.redneck-trailer.com/p-54...-bp19-005.aspx