Slideout issue

sodak · 11-19-2017, 10:30 AM

We are new to the RV life and are just getting started with a 2007 Elite Suites 36ft. We are having issues with the door side slideout. Only the back side wants to move, the front does not. All the others work fine. I am wondering if there is something that I can look for or do I need to get a shop to look at it. I do know that I did put them in using the wrong order (I discovered after the fact). But I also though if an air lock was introduced that the whole slide would not work, not just half a slide.

anijet · 11-19-2017, 11:13 AM

The hydraulic ram is installed on the front end of the slide. There is a rack and pinion gear set installed on the front and the rear of the slide connected by a drive shaft. Either a gear set is damaged or the drive shaft is somehow disconnected at one end. To access the gear sets you will need to drop the under belly cover. I've done this being careful and only loosening enough for access.

**wingnut60** · 11-19-2017, 05:07 PM

To further explain on anijet's answer: the slides move by a hydraulic ram pushing on one end of the slide; each end has a gear pack (a toothed gear [pinion] that rides on the toothed track [rack] that you see under each slide and disappearing into the frame. The gear packs on each end are connected to each other by a long torque tube and the tube is held on by shear bolts. Apparently, on the end that does not want to move, the shear bolt is gone (sheared). You will need to cut into the belly cover underneath the trailer starting at the frame and moving inward. If you make the cut about 18" wide and leave the inside end attached, you will create a flap that will be easier to replace than if you cut the inside end also.
Then, having made the cut, you can see the gear pack and the torque tube. There will be a bolt hole on the end of the tube that does not have a bolt in it. When you make the cut, the old bolt will probably fall out. Replace the bolt after lining up the hole in the tube with the hole in the gear pack shaft. You will have to align the opposite ends to make sure the slide goes in/out both ends at same time
When you get the flap open, the operation will become somewhat apparent and better to understand than just my trying to explain it.
I did both ends of the door side slide on my '05--not terribly difficult, just tedious and working on your back trying to sit up into the frame are with your arms isn't easy.
See if this link helps you with some pictures:

https://www.lci1.com/through-frame-slideout

Joe

sodak · 11-20-2017, 08:43 AM

Thank you for the suggestions. I will be crawling under and opening things up today. It sounds exactly like a sheared bolt. When I find out and get it resolved I'll post my results. Thanks again.

Stripit · 11-20-2017, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sodak

Thank you for the suggestions. I will be crawling under and opening things up today. It sounds exactly like a sheared bolt. When I find out and get it resolved I'll post my results. Thanks again.

If you can take some pictures so the next time someone needs these directions it will be easy to show.

oldbird · 11-21-2017, 10:16 AM

I read on another thread to use grade 8 bolts and the person who posted that said DRV said to. Does it sound like overkill that might harm other components?

porthole · 11-21-2017, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldbird

I read on another thread to use grade 8 bolts and the person who posted that said DRV said to. Does it sound like overkill that might harm other components?

Grade 8 bolts in place of the shear bolt?

If that is your problem, the bolt sheared for a reason.
Replace it with a grade 8 bolt and whatever your problem was - will become a new problem.

I can't imagine any manufacturer recommending replacing a shear bolt with any grade other then another shear type fastener.

oldbird · 11-21-2017, 01:05 PM

I totally agree porthole, I read that and thought the same!

**wingnut60** · 11-21-2017, 02:52 PM

One thing to keep in mind about the softer bolts--the tubing is much harder than the bolt, and the edges of the tube constantly rub against the bolt. I would suspect that this wear is more of the problem than resistance to movement causing the failure. Sure, if there is a real bind in the movement, a harder bolt may cause more damage if it doesn't shear. In my case, the gear pack bushings wore out causing the shaft to be out of line and the bolt sheared--not sure if a harder bolt would have caused more damage or not.
With one instance in 7 years of use, I think the softer bolts are in order...