add pump to city water supply side? - Page 2

SrFox · 09-28-2018, 08:51 PM

That is your hot water tank bypass valve. Close the other two valves and you will not have hot water but both taps will be cold water.

JustinChase · 09-30-2018, 10:21 PM

hmmm, trailer plumbing really is weird.

I assume the water heater does not have a temp setting, which means the need for the mixing valve. How strange.

I'm also not sure why you'd want to bypass the hot water heater vs just shutting it off.

I also don't know why the cold water supply seems to tee into the hot water line.

Is there any reason i need a mixing valve or a bypass for things to function?

It seems just re-plumbing like a normal house (with a drain line) would be much easier and simpler than what I'm seeing so far.

Are there any reasons not to do this that I'm just not considering? I'd hate to 'fix' all these things and discover I overlooked something important.

Thanks all.

**wingnut60** · 09-30-2018, 10:57 PM

A bypass is useful in winterizing the unit—if using RV AF it gets pricey to have to put 6-12 gallons in it, just simpler to take it out of the circuit, then drain it.
There should be low-point drain valves for both hot and cold water systems, you just haven’t found them yet.
If you go thru a hard winter with it in storage without a good effort at winterizing, you will quickly find out next spring why such an effort was needed.

Notanlines · 10-01-2018, 08:54 AM

Justin, upper limit switches can be had at your friendly neighborhood RV parts dealer in varying temperatures. An easy install I might add. And keep in mind, just like was mentioned earlier, the RV manufacturers plumbed your rig like that for a reason.....

JustinChase · 10-01-2018, 02:06 PM

Thanks again for the help.

I'm not sure why I would need to add anti-freeze to the system if I can just drain it completely. With no water, there's nothing to freeze. Pex can handle below freezing temps, even with water inside, so I'm just not sure why I need to fill it all with AF.

Stinks having to climb a new learning curve, but I do appreciate the help.

I'll investigate the limit switches. I suppose I should check to see if there's one already installed.

Fun stuff.

Notanlines · 10-01-2018, 05:20 PM

Justin, you're in luck. Not only will your water heater have one, but it will have two; one for 12V and one for 120V. They are located under the black rubber-covered reset buttons. When you remove one, look for the code (part) number printed on it and then run it down on Google. That way you will be able to tell if you want one warmer or cooler. I might also add, twenty minutes and two gallons of cheap antifreeze will give you a world of peace all winter long.

JustinChase · 10-01-2018, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notanlines

Justin, you're in luck. Not only will your water heater have one, but it will have two; one for 12V and one for 120V. They are located under the black rubber-covered reset buttons. When you remove one, look for the code (part) number printed on it and then run it down on Google. That way you will be able to tell if you want one warmer or cooler. I might also add, twenty minutes and two gallons of cheap antifreeze will give you a world of peace all winter long.

Thanks, i'll look for those buttons.

For the foreseeable future, I'll be using the RV during the winter, so it won't be winterized.

I think you're saying that it's worth it to add antifreeze instead of draining the system. I'm not sure I understand why you feel that way. Having no water seems sufficient to avoid the lines freezing.

Why do you say the antifreeze is better? Not arguing, just trying to understand.

Thanks again for all your help.

Stripit · 10-01-2018, 05:55 PM

When we were full time traveling in the Mobile Suites we always winterized by parking under a Palm Tree in a warm place! Heard many stories about the folks that blew out the lines and found in the spring the fridge ice maker lines broken, the toilet flush lines broken or a water purifier line split. All things not cleared by the winterizing. When I was forced to stay in Michigan before going full time, I blew out the lines and then added and forced 2-3 gallons of rv anti freeze through the system. Just for protection

**wingnut60** · 10-01-2018, 08:40 PM

IF you have them--hard to drain icemaker/washing machine. IF you trust the mfg process to have all lines set to gravity drain, then just drain up and try it one winter.
But you are correct--an empty line won't freeze and break...

elliott-maine · 10-02-2018, 08:43 AM

Even if you are closing up your trailer for a month or so in the summer, it makes sense to drain all of water from your system as bacteria can grow in the water and take on an odor.