Slide Problem

[anijet]

Originally Posted by porkchop

Yes they did, because they were heavy trailers. And the vast majority of us had no problems, ever.

Bill

Yep, See here:
http://www.5thwheelforums.com/forums...ead.php?t=1499

[porthole]

When I had my MOR/ryde IS installed (07/2009) they specifically recommended against the Never lube bearings bearings with rigs over 14K.
They also recommended against using oil in the hubs as well, even though every DRV coming through the shop at the time had oil bath hubs.

Never lube bearings - never lube shackles - Kantleak valves .......

[anijet]

I had Mor/ryde IS installed a year ago and had them install the old fashion "pack yourself" bearings. Easy to maintain and inspect. With proper maintenance they will run almost forever. The Nev-R-lub can't be inspected other than a looseness or wobble test. By the time that test fails it will have been too late. All you can do is replace the bearings at a predetermined interval or take you chances.

[Cummins12V98]

"The Nev-R-lub can't be inspected other than a looseness or wobble test."

Not true. I asked Kevin at Kodiak about checking for wear. He said "look at the back side you will see a small amount of lube when it starts becoming more obvious replace the bearing before it fails."

[porthole]

Bearings options and disc brakes at MOR/ryde:

Never lube bearings - Dexter proprietary parts
Conventional bearings - standard bearings and seals, Kodiak parts and GM brake pads

[Rockyhud]

In answer to Joe's question about brakes, yes, this rig has Kodiak disc brakes. The caliper has "250" cast into the inboard side. The axles have a Lippert "data plate" (sticker actually) showing it to be 8K rated. And thanks for your suggestion to inquire about a discount to "help" them with their clearance on these. On that note, it makes me wonder where we might get these parts in the future if they're not going to supply them any more.

I'm planning to call Kodiak today to see what they recommend and can provide. I'm going to pose the question about parts availability when I do and will give an update afterward. Sure wish the rig used separate inner and outer bearing like Leo got - much more reliable and durable in general plus he's more likely to find them in auto parts stores and elsewhere. The reliability and durability factors are why, several years back, I converted my 4x4 truck's front axle unit bearings to "old school" manual lockout hubs and spindles that have much larger bearings and are spaced much further apart, plus I can get replacements (if needed) almost anywhere. This has been one of the best "investments" I've made for this truck.

[anijet]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

"The Nev-R-lub can't be inspected other than a looseness or wobble test."

Not true. I asked Kevin at Kodiak about checking for wear. He said "look at the back side you will see a small amount of lube when it starts becoming more obvious replace the bearing before it fails."

So on a 7,000 mile cross country tour how often do you recommend crawling under the trailer to inspect?

[Rockyhud]

Based on what I've seen on our rig, or more accurately NOT seen, I have to say the advice from Kodiak saying you'll see a small amount of lube leaking on the backside doesn't ALWAYS hold true. The backside of the wheel needing repairs is completely devoid of ANY leaked contaminants or evidence there ever have been. Like I mentioned earlier, I had no clue there was anything wrong with it until I got the rig home and checked the wheels when the stabilizers lifted that side's wheels off the ground. The only other unrecognized hint was the light screeching sound I heard now and then during some tight turns on our trip home with it. For me I think the wheel wobble test may be the most reliable indicator.

[wingnut60]

Not sure about the Kevin advice, but when the mfg tells you how to check for wear, I tend to listen to them.

And as to problems--I am with Bill, the vast majority of the rigs that came with the NRLs never had a problem.

As to the oil lube hubs, sure is sad when the trucking industry can use them for millions of miles with minimum problems, and DRV can't put them together for several months without leaking.....it ain't the design, it's the DRV method of buying cheap/not testing mods.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by anijet

So on a 7,000 mile cross country tour how often do you recommend crawling under the trailer to inspect?

I don't know just when you think about it! I would say every 3,000 or so.

I bought a rotor with studs and bearing from Kodiak just to have on hand for my 07.5 MS. With a TrailerAid Plus it's less than 1 hour to R&R.

[Cummins12V98]

The oil bath system is the BEST hands down, it's just whether there are QUALITY parts installed.

I may go to that system if I can source the parts.

[Dapperdan]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

The oil bath system is the BEST hands down, it's just whether there are QUALITY parts installed.

I may go to that system if I can source the parts.

I agree with Ron, oil bath is best, however while we were at MORryde last summer getting the risers the techs STRONGLY urged me to switch to the old fashioned hand re-pack system. I "caved" because of the comment the one tech said, as long as the wheels get spun once in a while you're OK but most people don't remember to give those wheels a few spins every now and then while sitting and the bearings dry out at the top and the problems begin. I didn't want to take the chance not remembering to spin my wheels. It's not that hard to pull the hubs and inspect the bearings.

Dan

[Rockyhud]

I got a chance to call Kodiak late this afternoon and talked with Jesse about the bearings and hubs. He echoed the same remarks as others, that he can't tell which type is installed just based on having 8K Lippert axles and Kodiak 250 disc brakes. I need to at least see what the spindle cap looks like, then he can tell me. He also said the Nev-R-Lube bearings were phased out in 2010, with a switch to separate inner and outer bearings (maybe oil bath hubs or ones with greased bearings?) and with our RV having a manufacture date in 2010 it's on the cusp of having one or the other. I also got some relief when I asked him the ball park cost of new hubs with bearings and rotors and he said about $110 or so most likely. I'm hoping the weather here allows me to check out the type of hubs this weekend so I can get the correct parts ordered next week.

[wingnut60]

Whatever you end up doing, get the torque numbers from Kodiak for the caliper bolts--several instances of the calipers coming loose and ruining the rotor.
I think you will find you have the NRLs on your axle, not the oil bath. Easy to see which is which with the hubcap off.

[Rockyhud]

Thanks for the torque tip. Weather and time permitting I'm going to pop the hubcap off this weekend. Sure hoping it doesn't have NRL hubs, especially after hearing from Kodiak they've been phased out and will get harder and harder to find as time goes.

[oldbird]

I'm following along Steve! Just a side note my NRL hubs on my Travel Supreme lasted nine years and were still going strong when I sold it. I'm not talking about driving three miles to the local campground for a weekend and back. I'm talking about 10-12 thousand miles across country every year. Good Luck!

[porthole]

Originally Posted by Dapperdan

people don't remember to give those wheels a few spins every now and then while sitting and the bearings dry out at the top and the problems begin. I didn't want to take the chance not remembering to spin my wheels.

If it was possible that oil of the oil bath lube did drain and dry the bearing, 1/2 spin would take care of it, just getting your trailer hooked up and moved a few feet would get the bearings lubed.

I have yet to see anything more then internet rumors with regards to properly maintained oil bath (typically filled with gear oil) hubs having rusty bearings just because someone didn't rotate the wheels.
How is it that moisture got into the sealed system and rusted out all these bearings?

The leakage that has been seen on DRV's with the oil bath hubs might have something to do with the plastic caps (and o-rings) and-or incorrect torquing of those caps.

Originally Posted by Rockyhud

new hubs with bearings and rotors and he said about $110 or so

If that is true, it is a very good price.

I bought a Kodiak hub and rotor (no bearings, but included seals) this past August from eTrailer for $123.
The same package from Kodiak was $275

Note, the oil bath hubs require different seals if using oil.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by Dapperdan

I agree with Ron, oil bath is best, however while we were at MORryde last summer getting the risers the techs STRONGLY urged me to switch to the old fashioned hand re-pack system. I "caved" because of the comment the one tech said, as long as the wheels get spun once in a while you're OK but most people don't remember to give those wheels a few spins every now and then while sitting and the bearings dry out at the top and the problems begin. I didn't want to take the chance not remembering to spin my wheels. It's not that hard to pull the hubs and inspect the bearings.

Dan

I have to say the "drying out" comment is really a joke! I would have asked them how many bearings have actually gone bad or is it the fact the caps and poor quality seals leaked?

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Whatever you end up doing, get the torque numbers from Kodiak for the caliper bolts--several instances of the calipers coming loose and ruining the rotor.
I think you will find you have the NRLs on your axle, not the oil bath. Easy to see which is which with the hubcap off.

The biggie is to use BLUE Loctite. DRV says RED but that is a knee jerk over reaction to some bolts coming loose. Most likely because no Loctite was used to begin with.

[Dapperdan]

"I have to say the "drying out" comment is really a joke! I would have asked them how many bearings have actually gone bad or is it the fact the caps and poor quality seals leaked?"

In hind sight Ron I wish I would've! My bad....... But while I was at DRV and taking their tour, the sales guy (or whatever he was) told us oil bath hubs were no longer available period because Dexter would NOT allow them used. Their words not mine. Then last summer when at MORryde those guys strongly suggested I switch. I decided to make the switch, that simple. I had NO problems with oil leaking out but one concern I had that I brought up to MORryde was the fact that I was having a "slight" moisture problem with the front axel. On just the front I could see the oil turning milky (both sides), I drained and replaced the oil twice. It was confusing to me, I had water somehow leaking in but I had NO oil seeping out! Inner and outer seals looked intact to me. Since changing to grease I haven't had any moisture. Maybe I had bad seals on the front axel and MORryde changed them out I don't know, they didn't look bad to me.

Dan