Has Anyone Replaced their 42K BTU Furnace???

stanleyz · 10-15-2018, 10:28 AM

If you have replaced your furnace please tell me how it went. Did you replace just the control card? How did that go? Did you replace with the new Q model, if so is that quite enough to be worth the 800 bucks? Any and all info would be appreciated.

My furnace works OK. It warms the RV quite well. Some times it does not shut off when set temp is reached and eventually I have to turn it off or change the set temp to get it to wind down. My best guess is the control card in the furnace. I'm really considering the new quite model and just replace the whole furnace or at least the interior if it will fit in my present housing. Thanks in advance.

WRWGN · 10-15-2018, 05:15 PM

on my old 5er, my furnace did just the opposite. it wasn't turning on automatically. I'd constantly have to go out to the furnace and reset it there. I had a remote RV tech come out and he replaced the control card.

**wingnut60** · 10-15-2018, 09:47 PM

Stanley,
Have you looked at/considered the Cheap Heat option? Pricey, but works well for even heating without propane.

steadfast · 10-16-2018, 12:00 PM

To me it doesn't sound like the problem is in your furnace, but in your thermostat or #1 AC (where all heat/air is controlled). A way to test would be to disconnect one of the blue wires while it is running. If the furnace cycles off, the problem is not in your furnace.

**wingnut60** · 10-16-2018, 09:22 PM

Stanley,
I was on my 3rd control board on the '05 when I traded it...

stanleyz · 10-22-2018, 06:24 PM

Never heard of it but i will check it out.

**wingnut60** · 10-22-2018, 08:31 PM

Stanley,
It is a resistance heater like the one in your AC at home for heating--it fits between the regular furnace and the ducts. Uses 120current when hooked up to shore power and heats air instead of the furnace burner. Regular floor ducts and works thruout the trailer where you have the ducts. Pretty neat gadget but I seem to remember it costs $1000-$1200, not sure it that includes installation.

John Landry · 10-22-2018, 09:17 PM

I have installed the Cheap Heat System in my Mobile Suite and it's going on eight years now and I love this system. It was not that difficult to install. Cost me around 680.00 in 2010. I have the 5000 watt heater coil and is powered by two 110 volt 30 amp circuits. The system on start up draws about 21 amps. I enjoy the option to run on propane or electric. Great system.

elliott-maine · 10-23-2018, 10:04 AM

If you need to replace the board in your furnace, replace it with a board from Dinosaur. Guarantee and Made in the USA. I have no connection, just a very satisfied customer.

stanleyz · 10-24-2018, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steadfast

To me it doesn't sound like the problem is in your furnace, but in your thermostat or #1 AC (where all heat/air is controlled). A way to test would be to disconnect one of the blue wires while it is running. If the furnace cycles off, the problem is not in your furnace.

I think I did the same test a different way but you tell me please. I disconnected the Thermostat and the furnace continued to run.

steadfast · 10-25-2018, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanleyz

I think I did the same test a different way but you tell me please. I disconnected the Thermostat and the furnace continued to run.

By disconnecting the thermostat you have eliminated it as being the problem. You are probably correct that it is the relay on the board in the furnace. Good luck.

stanleyz · 10-28-2018, 04:18 PM

As suggested above I tried the blue wires, furnace worked and shut down fine. Since I have two Tstats and had seen no difference I concluded they were OK. The temp sensor must be working as the ACs work fine, I believe the problem to be the control card in the big AC. Found a card on line for 135 bucks but I didn't have time to wait for it so here is my solution:

I installed a home thermostat for the furnace. 25 bucks at HD, Honeywell RTH111b. Battery powered, digital, non-programmable. I believe a programmable would work but wasn't sure.

Isolate the two blue wires, cap and tape each of the wires you disconnect.
Identify the hot blue wire, should have battery voltage. Run two new wires from the blue wires to the thermostat something around 12 AWG will work. Be sure you can identify the hot side. Connect hot wire to R slot on stat and ground wire to W slot. There is a jumper in the stat I removed mine. Install batteries and set the desired temp. I ran mine all evening on a chilly night and it held 72 degrees all evening. Hope this helps someone.