Front Jacks stopped working

Bernd & Susan · 12-03-2015, 10:35 AM

I need help with my front leveling jacks, which stopped working. Slides work, rear jacks work, reservoir has plenty of fluid, motor runs while pushing front-jack button, but front jacks stopped while retracting. Jack on pump side is almost up, the other is only half-way up. Called Lippert and was told to open valve on top of leading leg and then use manual retraction method. However, on my 2007 Mobile Suites 36SB3, the position of the reservoir tank prevents the use of a 5/32 Allen wrench to open the valve, and the motor faces the wall to the generator, with only about a 1/4 inch of space, thus not allowing to attach anything. I'm in the Austin, Tx, area, and first mobile mechanic couldn't help. Two others either don't work on hydraulics or are hesitant to do so. I was able to unhook the truck and I'm in a place where I can park for a good 4 weeks, so there's no emergency. Has anybody had a similar problem or can somebody suggest what to do? I'm a novice (in fact, this is my first outing with the 5th wheel), but I'm willing to learn. Any help or suggestion is appreciated.

terry and jo · 12-03-2015, 11:16 AM

I don't know if I can help much as I've never had problems with our 2010, and especially after you said that others had already tried. However, you referenced the pump and stuff facing the generator, so I'm presuming that your unit has the generator box built in. In our 2010, our generator prep box has an access hole through which one can work with the pump.

I suspect that if others have worked on your unit, they may have already found that small access cover on the right in the picture above. If not, maybe your unit has one as well.

Terry

Bernd & Susan · 12-03-2015, 08:21 PM

Hi Terry,
Thanks very much for your response. Unfortunately, my set up is different, as I don't have an access hole between the generator compartment and the hydraulic pump compartment. In fact, even with an access hole, there probably wouldn't be enough space for a drill because of the generator, which is located pretty much where your plastic containers are. I'm going to attach two photos, one showing the motor close to the wall (no access hole) and the other showing the tank obscuring the access to the valve of the front leading jack.

**wingnut60** · 12-03-2015, 08:43 PM

Have you tried all of these?

1
Campbell's Maintenance Service Mobile RV Repair
2 on Yelp
9300 S Interstate 35, Ste A500
Austin, TX
(512) 586-4306
Opens tom. at 8 AM
2
Campbells Maintenance Service Mobile RV Repair
Austin, TX
(512) 586-4306
3
Lake Hills RV & Boat Storage
Po Box 340054,Austin,Tx,78734
Austin, TX
(512) 261-0144
4
Shoreline Boat & RV Repair
14735 Bratton Ln
Austin, TX
(512) 251-1200
5
Onion CREEK Rv & Boat Storage
10815 Bradshaw Rd
Austin, TX
(512) 291-4433

Will look for some others to try...

westx · 12-04-2015, 09:26 AM

I Have a fiend who had same problem. He was told to remove the four screws that hold the panel and unplug the cable for 20 second or so and plug back in all worked great now. I'm talking about the on/off panel behind the locked door.

Bernd & Susan · 12-05-2015, 10:20 AM

Thanks, everybody, for your comments and suggestions. I have another mechanic come by this morning to help me with trouble shooting. I will post if and when we have a solution to the problem.

Has anybody used Explore USA RV Supercenter (e.g. in Kyle, TX) to have work done on their DRVs?

porkchop · 12-05-2015, 11:36 AM

I have used Marshall's Traveland in Buda, TX for warranty service before. Very satisfied with both quick response and quality of work. They used to be a DRV dealer and are familiar with the product.
Phone # 512 312 5680 Ad= 16611 IH 35, Buda, TX 78610. Same exit as Cabellas.
Good luck

Bill

Bernd & Susan · 12-22-2015, 11:22 PM

As promised, here's the solution to my problem. It was the controller, a $130 part. Turned out to be a $500 repair, which includes $150 for the service call, $200 in labor, plus tax.

Happy Travels!

golf_bears · 12-23-2015, 10:10 AM

Interested in this thread. Glad you got it fixed. Question, what "controller" are you talking about?

Bernd & Susan · 12-23-2015, 11:01 AM

Hi golf_bears,

The technician called it "controller." The Lippert Components manual for my 2007 HLG system calls it "Delay Timer, 8-pin harness" (page 28, wiring harness diagram). It's a small rectangular unit, held in place by a singular screw, with a 8-pin harness, located just in front of the hydraulic motor. Another technician reached by phone before the repair also suggested that it would be either the controller or solenoid. Interestingly enough, not a single Lippert respresentative (I had talked to 3 individuals) suggested either one as a possible source of my troubles. Instead, Lippert suggested to open valves, push the hydraulic jacks up with the help of a stand-alone jack, and then go to a service facility.

Happy trails,
Bernd

golf_bears · 12-24-2015, 07:57 AM

Hi Bernd,

Thanks for the explanation on the solution to your problem. A good explanation, as you have posted, can help a number of folks who may experience the same problem.

Never know when this problem may happen to one of us.

Thanks again.

Bernd & Susan · 01-02-2016, 02:32 PM

I'm posting a follow-up on the controller problem. If you ever have the controller replaced, hold on to the possibly faulty one. I'm saying this, because I had another malfunction the other day, which was caused simply by moisture. Let me explain. We were sitting inside the RV when we suddenly heard a noise similar to something hitting the outside of the camper, followed by the nose of the 5th wheel going down. By the time we had gotten out the camper, all we could do was watch the nose going all the way to the ground. I suspected a loss of hydraulic fluid. To my surprise, though, it wasn't hydraulic fluid but water that was the culprit. Water was running out of the washer/dryer hose exactly above the hydraulic motor and controls, obviously causing a short that made the nose go down. Fortunately, the system still worked, and I was able to get the nose up again. To make sure it wouldn't go down again, I quickly hitched the truck and then thoroughly tried the compartment. The next morning, I pulled out the truck and attempted to level the 5th wheel. That's when the system malfunctioned again, that is, the front jacks extended on the extent as well as the retract position. So, now I had the opposite problem of the night before, that is, the nose was way up. I then removed the new controller and took it apart to make sure that there is no water inside the unit. There wasn't, but there was about a drop of water inside one of the contacts of the eight-wire harness. After removing that drop and installing the controller again, the system worked fine. With this information on hand, I now wonder if the initial problem with the controller was also caused by moisture, as Central Texas had experienced quite some downpours during the last few months. I now wished that I would have kept the old controller (a $130 unit) to test this theory.

For those intrigued by the leak, here's what I found. The drain hose from the washer in my unit is a black PVC pipe, goes under the bed, then continues as a white, flexible hose to make a sharp turn before going again to a PVC pipe through the storage compartment toward the grey-water tank. The white hose is right above the hydraulic control compartment, and I found it jammed against the moving part of the bedroom slide, which must have punctured that hose.

End of story? I'm afraid not. See my latest thread "Bedroom Slide is tilted and stuck."