Repair Lippert hydraulic stabilizers or landing gear

stanleyz · 09-07-2018, 12:19 PM

I have now repaired both the stabilizers and landing gear on my 36 TK3. If you have an older unit you will encounter these problems sooner or later. The seals inside the rams wear out and fluid gets by causing them to drop or to not go down and or both. I wasted my time with CW techs and got told by numerous on site techs that they couldn't do the repair.

What must be done is the rams inside either the stabilizers or the landing gear or both must be removed and taken to a hydraulics shop to be rebuilt. I think the stabilizers cost me around $240 for both and the landing gear were $300.

The hard part of this job is finding a place to drop the rams. The stabilizers need around 15 inches below the bottom of the fixed housing and the landing gear are really long and need 4 to 5 feet of room beneath the fixed housing. Once you find a spot (best place is a fresh water storm drain manhole, I have one in my front yard and I saw a you tube where they went to walmart parking lot and found one) the rest is pretty easy.

Stabilizers, close all slides and raise landing gear. Remove the two hoses from each leg and the red block on the drivers side. Drop rams out, take removable parts off the rams and go to hydraulics shop. Installation is the reverse. When re-installed push down switch, keep an eye on the fluid level as you will need to add a little as the rams fill.

Landing gear. These are a lot bigger and require a lot more work. Just like above find where you can drop them. Close everything up and support trailer on truck. On the passenger side remove the two hose connections and mark one as upper or lower. Then remove the bolt at the top of the housing. I used a long thin bolt to put in the hole to hold up the rams until I was ready to drop them, also tie a bungi cord to to the foot to keep the bottom from dropping on your way to the drop place. On the drivers side there are a couple different systems used but they are not much different. At the top there is a red block with two hoses and two electrical connections on a valve. I removed and marked the hoses so I knew which went where and also took a picture as back up. Then I removed the wires and marked one wire and one connector. Once all that was done I just removed the red block and the valve as a unit. Then it gets interesting. The bottom hose is connected to the ram housing behind the sheet metal wall. You will have to cut the sheet metal to get at the hose connection. I used a dremel tool to make the cut. Be very careful where you make the cuts as there are hoses very near the wall and it is easy to cut one. (there is a reason I know this) I would make two vertical cuts well away from the leg housing and then a horizontal cut down toward the bottom. Then roll the cut sheet metal up and you can see the hoses and where you should and should not cut. Once the wall is opened remove the bottom hose and then go to the top and get the big bolt out. Secure the rams like you did on the other side and you are ready to go and remove them.

Pay attention, this is important (there is a reason I know this) To get the rams in and out of the housing they must be fully fully fully extended, open all the way. When you reinstall they must also be fully opened. In fact when you pick them up ask the shop to extend them.

Remove the rams and the connected legs. If you want you can take off the drop down parts and the feet and make the other assembly a little lighter. If you do that remember on reassembly to put them back on while you have the hole available.

Once out the legs are a bit different from the stabilizers. I could not remove the inner legs from the rams. There is a 1 1/8 nut you can get a deep well on from the bottom but I could not find a way to keep the ram shaft from turning that I was comfortable would not damage the shaft. I took the whole package to the hydraulic shop and they were able to rebuild them with the legs on.

When you get them back from the shop just reverse what you did to get them out. Once installed close the legs (it will take some pressure with the new seals in there) so when you hook everything up the first pressure will be from top down. I used a piece of sheet metal from Home Depot and some sheet metal screws to cover the hole in the wall. I then sealed all the edges with what else but duct tape.

I'm gonna try and post a couple pictures but it will only let me do 5 so don't expect a lot. I will try to submit an additional message with a few more pics, look for it. Hope this helps someone.

stanleyz · 09-07-2018, 12:28 PM

These pictures go with the post on Lippert hydraulic repairs.

**wingnut60** · 09-07-2018, 01:18 PM

Stanley,
Great pics, amazing patience to work on all this, I couldn't do it myself.
Hope your hydraulic problems are all behind you.
On a happier note for me--just had the front legs replaced by Lippert at their shop in Goshen. Now hope they no longer will drift down.
Joe

stanleyz · 09-07-2018, 05:42 PM

Hi Joe. Hope all is well with you I have to admit that at age 75 that job was all I wanted to do. Made a couple big mistakes. Cut a hose behind the tin wall with the dremel. Got a hydraulic shower and when I got cleaned up I examined the hoses and found a small cut in one. Talked to the hydraulic shop and they had no way to repair it on site. So, I started tearing stuff off and trying to follow the hose. That is not easy and after a couple hours it occurred to me that I had never actually seen that cut leak. So, I back up and get the wife to push the button while I watch for the leak. Guess what, the leak was not the hose I was chasing. It was on an adjacent hose and was cut exactly where the crimp metal meets the hose and almost undetectable without bending the hose. The hose was only two feet long and went up to the valves. Had it replaced in a couple hours but took two more hours to close everything up.

Second mistake was not knowing to have the landing gear fully extended to get them back in the legs. I wrestled with them for a long time before I figured it out. In fact I'm still sore.

I just couldn't see going to indiana to get it done and to be honest in the 20 years I've had fifth wheels I have never had a satisfactory experience with a repair shop so I don't bother with them if I can avoid it.

Hope yours were repaired and you have no further troubles. I guess you have level up. I don't know how much different they would be hydraulic wise but probably not much.

**wingnut60** · 09-07-2018, 08:47 PM

Had 3 projects this trip thru IN--Morryde to check IS/pack bearings; Indiana Interstate to set fridge in slot correctly--was leaning out at top; Lippert to replace front jacks. This is third time to travel this way and get some work done--each time done correctly and professionally.
Long way to go, but it always fit into another trip.
Joe

Joezilla · 09-12-2018, 09:45 PM

My dealer said he would change out our jacks or would send them to me and that I could do it. However, they would be the same style jacks as we already had that had failed.

We opted to go to Lippert in Goshen. They took care of us Monday, June 25. All has been well since then. Hopefully, it continues.

Joe

Joezilla · 09-12-2018, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Had 3 projects this trip thru IN--Morryde to check IS/pack bearings; Indiana Interstate to set fridge in slot correctly--was leaning out at top; Lippert to replace front jacks. This is third time to travel this way and get some work done--each time done correctly and professionally.
Long way to go, but it always fit into another trip.
Joe

We had work done on our previous Select Suites at Indiana Interstate. Great people there!

Joe

Cummins12V98 · 09-13-2018, 12:06 PM

Great Idea on the Man Hole! My friend has a pit we will place ours over.

**wingnut60** · 09-14-2018, 04:41 PM

Have since figured out the travel on the new jacks is not as high/low as the originals. Causing some problems with calibration of zero/level. Also was using lots of blocks under the front jacks that didn't allow the nose to dip low enough to begin auto-level. Still getting the new jacks calibrated--seems 'level' in the basement is NOT 'level' in the interior--if zeroed/calibrated to basement, the auto-level comes up low to front and drivers side.
New jacks, new problems...

Cummins12V98 · 09-15-2018, 08:46 AM

^^^^^ I really don't like the idea of shorter jacks that is a big reason I am going to rebuild mine.

psikora · 09-18-2018, 05:08 AM

Great post! Thanks and sorry for your troubles. After reading posts for two years now, I'm becoming more accepting of the fact that rare is the time when you don't need to address something. I make my own problems by attempting to enhance things (like the new access door I just added), but that's another post.

Bogie57 · 10-09-2018, 11:43 AM

By older unit how old are you talking about? I have a 2015.

stanleyz · 10-09-2018, 12:07 PM

Hi Bogie. Gotta b a golfer i guess. My unit is an 05. Your landing gear is solid i guess and round. I dont think the rams could be much different if they are hydraulic they have to have seals and if so the seals can wear out. Joe will probably see this and he has a 15 or 16. He just had landing gear problems and can probably help you more.

Bogie57 · 10-09-2018, 12:17 PM

Thanks stanleyz. I have heard horror stories about this problem!

stanleyz · 10-09-2018, 03:31 PM

Yku r welcome. Jo goes by wingnut on here. He has a 15 and lippert rebuilt or replaced his. Contact him. Maybe there is so much trouble with them lippert is stepping up.

**wingnut60** · 10-10-2018, 07:14 AM

Yes, a ‘15 and the front jacks were drifting down if slides used while hitched to truck. Sometimes while traveling one would come down partway. Could have been a big deal if one came down far enough to hit ground.