Changing Out Lippert Hydraulic Hoses - Page 3

Exposed · 03-01-2021, 04:50 PM

I just spoke with Anderson on the valve after watching a video from a DRV owner in swapping out. Looks like two versions of the valve and of course the one I have is back ordered and expected in about a month. I went ahead and ordered and will try to tighten up connections some more. I think it is leaking on the body side and not a hose connection side. It also started leaking on the city water fill connection when we disconnected from city hookup on the last trip out. I ended up just putting a ball valve on the connection and closing when not hooked up to stop leaking. We don't have any trips planned for the next month so should be okay till new manifold gets in.

terry and jo · 03-01-2021, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

I tightened all my fittings a couple years ago on the "KANT LEAK" and have been fine since.

Note! Be sure to turn off water to RV when changing KL valve settings and also receive pressure first. I think that is why most units fail by just turning the valve lets say to fill fresh tank without receiving the pressure.

Cummins,

Did you mean to type "relieve" and "relieving?"

Terry

Cummins12V98 · 03-02-2021, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry and jo

Cummins,

Did you mean to type "relieve" and "relieving?"

Terry

Yes, thanks! corrected.

Tried but for some reason there is no "edit" option on that post.

Notanlines · 03-02-2021, 04:20 PM

For some reason known only by the site owners this item is only available until five minutes before the OP realizes there is an error. Who knows why?

RLopez · 03-07-2021, 09:58 AM

Once again thank you for your help I will be shopping for some jack stands today and maybe I can start working on my RV sometime this week. PLEASE tell me WHY we pay so much for our RV’s and yet we still have to come back and repair what DRV should have done RIGHT AT THE FACTORY!

Exposed · 03-10-2021, 10:20 AM

Supposed to get the replacement for the KantLeak manifold. I did get the water heater drained last weekend in preparing to remove. I also noticed there was two different gaskets that are used. I ended up ordered both since they were cheap and figured one would be the correct one. They are also supposed to be here today as well. I will tackle this issue this weekend and get swapped out. Hopefully this will finish the immediate work on the DRV. I am ready for a trip and getting the itch to go somewhere for a get away. Both wife and I got the second Covid shot couple weeks ago and hopefully are somewhat protected now...

One other thing on the hydraulic hose replacement. I was topping off the reservoir and dawned on me that the front landing jacks were down. So I am about 3/4" from top of the reservoir now and wonder if I need to remove some fluid since the front jacks are not retracted. I guess I will just watch when retracting on next hookup. Hopefully will not burp out when all are retracted.

Cummins12V98 · 03-11-2021, 12:20 PM

I would have someone hit the retract while you look at the fluid level. I am thinking it would come very close to overflowing.

Exposed · 03-12-2021, 08:04 AM

I received the new replacement for the KantLeak manifold. Looks pretty much the same except the heater bypass connections are backward to what is currently hooked up. I saw one DRV owner had commented on this when he changed out his. It is definitely different so hope have enough slack in the lines to do the swap. Went to Ace Hardware and they did not have the gaskets used on the screw in connections on the manifold. Got out on the Internet and looks like there were two options so ordered both. Watts Aqualock/Seatech and Flair-it 06435. I attached some pictures showing the difference. One is closer but think both would work. Both are same ID and OD but just the shape and height is different. I previewed and noticed the pictures are upside down. Not for sure why.. I will tackle this Saturday morning.

On the reservoir being too full, I am thinking I will remove one of the jack lines and let fluid drain out of the cylinder. This will bring the level down some and be easier than trying to remove from the reservoir. In my DRV, the fill location on the reservoir is hard to get to with all the lines in front of it.

Exposed · 03-12-2021, 08:49 AM

I know this is a little off subject but relates to the hydraulic jacks. I know on our farm tractor, the hydraulic lift extends and retracts just like our jacks/cylinder slides. The cylinder has equal volume on each side of the cylinder internal. So the amount of fluid required to extend/retract is the same. Maybe all hydraulic cylinders are not created equal. Since they say that the jacks/cylinders need to be retracted to set the level of the reservoir. Why would it matter if the jacks/cylinders were extended/retracted in the reservoir? Looks like either direction would require the same amount of fluid. The only thing I can think is the extend side of the cylinder has a larger volume than the retract side. The landing jacks require less resistance to raise than lower. The slide cylinder would require the same I would think since in/out would be probably the same resistance. Maybe someone has some experience in this and can explain...

anijet · 03-12-2021, 11:16 AM

The extend side is the total volume of the cylinder. The retract side is the cylinder volume minus the volume consumed by the ram. That is why it has more power in extend mode than retract. The extend pressure acts on the whole area of the piston. The retract pressure acts on the exposed area of the piston (piston area minus the area used by the ram).

Campingnut · 03-12-2021, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exposed

I received the new replacement for the KantLeak manifold. Looks pretty much the same except the heater bypass connections are backward to what is currently hooked up. I saw one DRV owner had commented on this when he changed out his. It is definitely different so hope have enough slack in the lines to do the swap. Went to Ace Hardware and they did not have the gaskets used on the screw in connections on the manifold. Got out on the Internet and looks like there were two options so ordered both. Watts Aqualock/Seatech and Flair-it 06435. I attached some pictures showing the difference. One is closer but think both would work. Both are same ID and OD but just the shape and height is different. I previewed and noticed the pictures are upside down. Not for sure why.. I will tackle this Saturday morning.

On the reservoir being too full, I am thinking I will remove one of the jack lines and let fluid drain out of the cylinder. This will bring the level down some and be easier than trying to remove from the reservoir. In my DRV, the fill location on the reservoir is hard to get to with all the lines in front of it.

I changed just the seals on mine when I did it but found it still leaked I ended up changing all my fittings to these
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...1212/301541107

Cummins12V98 · 03-12-2021, 12:18 PM

"On the reservoir being too full, I am thinking I will remove one of the jack lines and let fluid drain out of the cylinder."

I highly suggest buying one of these, ZERO mess.

ARES 70920 - Fluid Change Syringe - Smooth Suction Action for Easy Fluid Change - Ideal for Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid Removal and More - 200cc Max Capacity $24.38 AMAZON

Exposed · 03-12-2021, 01:58 PM

Thanks for the explanation on the cylinder. Now thinking about it, makes perfect sense.

I thought about a large syringe and should have looked further. I think I will order one of those. That would definitely be handy to have for more than just this issue.

One thing nice about these forums, always a wealth of information to be had...
thanks

terry and jo · 03-12-2021, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campingnut

I changed just the seals on mine when I did it but found it still leaked I ended up changing all my fittings to these
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...1212/301541107

First of all, our Mobile Suites is a 2010 model, and the water lines on it are 3/8" lines instead of 1/2" ones. Do the newer DRV's have 1/2" lines, or is this just something at the Kantleak thing-a-bobbie? (Our 2010 just has an inlet to put a garden hose to fill the fresh water tank.

Terry

Campingnut · 03-13-2021, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry and jo

First of all, our Mobile Suites is a 2010 model, and the water lines on it are 3/8" lines instead of 1/2" ones. Do the newer DRV's have 1/2" lines, or is this just something at the Kantleak thing-a-bobbie? (Our 2010 just has an inlet to put a garden hose to fill the fresh water tank.

Terry

Ours are all 1/2" on the back of the Kantleak valve.

porkchop · 03-13-2021, 10:06 AM

The newer models use half inch thru out.

Bill

Exposed · 03-15-2021, 03:39 PM

I got the KantLeak manifold changed out this weekend. Went pretty smooth except for a couple of things. The top and bottom hoses on the heater bypass have to be switched for the new manifold. Normally that might not be a big deal but this pex tubing is almost as rigid as copper tubing. I assume new it is easier to bend but 5 years old is pretty stiff. Also has to roll the connection 180 degrees to connect. Anyway, I was worried about it leaking after I forced connector to roll. With the two different seals I bought, the shorter one (Aqua) was too short. When connected, the screwed connector would bottom out before compressing. So the Flair-It seals were the correct one to use. I also noticed the line going to the pump suction had a check valve installed which made that line about 1" too long. Since it is a straight shot to the pump, I had to cut it off and shorten to get it installed. Once all connected back up, cut the water on and knock on wood, no leaks. Left water on all night and still good so think we are in good shape. It would not be a difficult job to do except the hot/cold water manifolds are right in the front of access. You have only about a 4" square opening to get to the connections on the KantLeak manifold.

Also, the syringe I ordered (thanks to Cummins recommendation) came in Saturday. It worked great in removing about a quart from the reservoir. I would recommend this for also adding to the reservoir since it is hard to get to.

I think RLopez got started on his project on replacing his hydraulic hoses and slide cylinders this weekend. Hopefully will keep us posted on his progress. Also he was looking at having the cylinders rebuilt instead of ordering new ones. I am curious since I would consider having my old ones rebuilt and keep as spares if ever needed again.

RLopez · 03-15-2021, 09:12 PM

Hello to everyone,
Yes I did start on my hose/slide cylinder project I was able to locate all hoses and both slide cylinders.My luck both slide cylinders and hoses were leaking no wonder my slide kept coming out every time I made a right turn. I guess we were lucky the door side slide never opened up anyway I did order both slide cylinders from Lippert today and went out to our local hydraulic repair shop to have my hoses cut to size they should be ready by Friday per Lippert my cylinders should also be here by Friday. Exposed the plan is to have my cylinders repaired as soon as I take them back to the Hydraulic shop they will have to look at them to see if they can be repaired I will keep everyone posted.

Cummins12V98 · 03-15-2021, 09:37 PM

"Also, the syringe I ordered (thanks to Cummins recommendation) came in Saturday. It worked great in removing about a quart from the reservoir. I would recommend this for also adding to the reservoir since it is hard to get to."

Great, you will find many uses for it!