G114's torque

[ponch]

What are you using for torque on the 17.5 wheels?
The 16's were 150ft lbs I believe.

Ponch

[sigo'suite]

Ponch,

FWIW:
My 16's were torqued to 120 ft/# and my 17.5 are also torqued to 120 because I bought wheels which still use the 9/16" lug bolts which came on my 8000# axles. Had I gone with Alcoa's which would have required switching to 5/8" lug bolts the torque would have changed. I do not know off the top of my head what the torque is for the 5/8" lug bolts.

[ponch]

Ron
You are right it was 12o ft lbs. maybe it's 150 for the 5/8 studs.

[rdunk]

Hey Ponch. I have the Vision 17.5 aluminum wheels. As directed by Doubletree, I asked Tredit Tire & Wheel about the torque. Tredit advised to torque at between 175lbs and 225lbs, with a caveat that if it were him, he would go to the higher side. On that basis, I torque at 200lb ft.

I don't know about Alcoa Wheels. My axles are Dexter, and I did look at their torquing parameters for the 5/8 studs. Dexter states that their 5/8 studs can be torqued to a max of 325 lb ft. So, for me, it was just a matter of what was right for the Vision wheels.

You might start looking for a good "cheater bar", if you are going to do the torquing.

Good luck!

[ponch]

LOL

Robert

When they put on the new wheels they are so tight that I broke the "craftsman 1/2" Breaker Bar".

I have one tire that has a verrrrry slow leak. So the reason that I ask was that when I take it in to the tire shop I was going to have them find the leak and then loosen all of the lugs and I would torque them myself. After reading what you have to say I think that I'll have them do the torquing!!!

[Stripit]

>>Torque on the 17.5 wheels with 9/16 studs is 120-140
foot pounds. We have just finished some testing and
because of some changes that have been made in the
wheel we have increased the range up to 140 foot
pounds. I would use 130 foot pounds trying to stay in
the 120-140 range.<<

This is from the company that I just bought my wheels from. I torqued mine to 130 when I installed them a few weeks ago.

[ponch]

Thanks Stacey!

Ponch

[sigo'suite]

Stacey,

What changes were made to the wheel and when?

Ron

[Stripit]

Don't know Ron. That was the reply I got from Sara when I asked her yesterday. When I got my wheels, there was a paper in the box that noted what spec was on the torque, but I thought I would ask her to double check for me, and that was her response.

[rverdlm]

Do all of you have the cone style lug nuts that center the wheel? I have flange nuts and the wheels are centered by the center hole just like on the truck or a car. The flange nuts are stamped 150 ft/pd.

[Motor31]

Mine are cone style lug nuts on the 17.5 wheels and 5/8 studs. The Dexter factory rep who was checking a possible leak in the wheel bearing told me the torque was 150 lbs for that set up.

[rdunk]

Quote: "The Dexter factory rep who was checking a possible leak in the wheel bearing told me the torque was 150 lbs for that set up".
.................................................. .......................................
Per Dexter's website, Dexter quit specifying/recommending "wheel torque", except for "steel wheels" they manufacture. Dexter also states that for any other wheels, to contact the wheel manufacturer for torquing requirements.

Dexter does give the torquing for both cone nuts and flange nuts on their 17.5 "steel wheels". The torquing difference is interesting with the flange nut torquing higher, at 275 - 325 lb ft vs the cone nut at 190 - 210 lb ft

Dexter also recommends staging the torque in three increments, and gives the stud torque sequence, if we want to get technical.

FYI - for the Dexter info on torquing (their studs and steel wheels) this is their website -

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...-07_72_res.pdf

[bstark]

Cone versus flange nuts and aluminum wheel thickness are the governing factors for torquing. Over-torquing with the cone nuts can actually displace aluminum and cause cracking of the wheel from the bolt hole to the center hole. Flange nuts can be torqued to a higher degree because they are simply clamping on the outer surface of the wheel without the tendancy to displace or stress the bolt hole.

Something to remember: DO NOT lube the bolts or nuts as this radically distorts any torque reading you will get. Wheel studs and their nuts must be dry and lube free. Cleaning studs with a wire brush and the nuts with one of those plumbers wire brushes used for soldering fittings is all that is needed from time to time.

[ponch]

Out of curiosity I called DT and they said 150lb for the 17.5's.

Ponch

[RGordon]

This topic has led me to a question on the lug nuts. How do you get the chrome covers off the lug nuts or do they come off? I have the 17.5" Aluminum wheels.

[sigo'suite]

On mine, don't believe they come off. I learned real quick though to use a deep well socket when torqing.

[rdunk]

My chrome lug nut covers just pop off, and pop on. They can be pulled off with a pair of large pliers, by clamping and wiggiling the cover just a little.

[bstark]

If you look at the covers, they have a "pencil eraser" size dimple on every other flat to keep them tight to the inner nut and if you wiggle them, as explained above, carefully with a rag protecting them from the pliers jaws, they'll slowly walk off the nut.

[ponch]

Ron
I yse a pair of pliers with a soft cover on the .

Ponch