Grey Valve Cable

edt · 12-20-2010, 01:21 PM

Is It Possible to run the cable for the Grey Valve so it doesn't bind?????????

Diesel-Gypsy · 12-20-2010, 03:16 PM

I don't think it is possible, must be very tricky to re-route the cable as DRV has not been able to figure it out in over 8 years.
So, I think it is just something we all have learn to live with.
They even have engineers working there, so that is proof enough I guess.
DRV has made some strides though over the years, and poor routing of that cable must be on their "to do" list, so it probably won't be too long before we all have a fix.

JMHO.... :lol:

Rick

edt · 12-21-2010, 05:46 AM

Some people talk about lubing the cables any way to get it to where it is needed

Diesel-Gypsy · 12-21-2010, 01:04 PM

Well, I have had some success by spraying WD 40 on the shaft part that is visible when the cable is pulled out.
I think my successive 379 applications of the spray lube has made a difference as it still does work.
I think constant lubrification does find it's way all the way along the cable.

I'm sorry, but that is all I can offer.. :?

Rick

ken&kat · 12-23-2010, 11:50 AM

This is my first time to reply to a post on this forum so bear with me as it may not be correct. We have had problems with our grey and black water valves being very stiff to operate. We were at the factory in Howe in August where the valve cables were lubricated very well but it made almost no difference in operation of the valves. It was suggested to me by Jimmy who was the mechanic at DRV that worked on our RV for us to try vegetable oil in the tanks. It worked great and is easy to do.

Simply empty the tanks and flush clean. Allow to drain completely and close the valves. I then put part of the gallon of vegetable oil in and grey tank and the remainder in the black tank. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and then stroked the grey valve part way open and closed quickly. It was easier to open and close on the first stroke and got easier with every stroke after that to a point of almost no resistance. I then did the same process with the black water valve that was almost impossible to close before starting. The black water valve is now operable with very little resistance. Since August I have repeated this process only once to keep things slick and operating well and I will continue to do this any time the valves get hard to move.

Try it, you will like it.

porkchop · 12-23-2010, 12:01 PM

That's the exact same experiance as I've had. Works well.

jcasey · 12-23-2010, 01:49 PM

I checked with DRV and got this reply from Tom Peck.

RE: Gray & Black Water Tank Gate Valve Lubrication

It is very important to keep the gray and black valves well lubricated. Keeping the valves lubricated will prolong the life of the valve and will also help to keep the valve moving freely.

To lubricate follow these steps:

1. Empty both the gray and black water tanks and close the valves.
2. Pour a half gallon of coconut oil down the kitchen sink drains.
(as a replacement for the coconut oil, a biodegradable lubricant liquid can be used.)
3. Pour a half gallon of coconut oil down the toilet.
4. Allow the oil to sit in the tanks for 48 hours.
5. Allow the oil to penetrate the valves through vehicle motion.
6. Resume use of the tanks--do not empty or flush the tanks.

Tom Peck also said: This is basically the same thing we are telling DRV customers with the vegetable oil. This should probably be done every so often instead of waiting until it gets hard to operate the gray and black tank valves.

Diesel-Gypsy · 12-23-2010, 08:55 PM

Well I'll be darned, I can't wait to try this.
Now we all know the secret, not sure why it was a secret, but it's common knowledge now.

Rick

billr · 12-23-2010, 09:52 PM

Did they sat whether or not the vegetable oil can be recycled?? :shock: :lol:

Bill

edt · 12-24-2010, 08:26 AM

I don't buy this vegetable oil story had other 5Th wheel with cables and no problem I will fix this problem and post answer.

anijet · 12-24-2010, 10:04 AM

Roughly six months after pruchase we returned to the factory for a few repairs. This was on the list but they couldn't make them any better and said they would be fine. Later I tried veggie oil and the commercial lube stuff from the RV store in the tanks. I added it whenever the RV wasn't in use. Lubed the cables and tried to reroute them but had little sucess. Finally the gray cable broke right at the valve. This is the main reason I installed the electric valves.

Motor31 · 12-25-2010, 01:03 PM

The black valve on ours failed due to sticky cable operation and a bad seal in the valve that allowed liquid to drain during the week. The service center we went to in KS didn't have a replacement cable valve and was able to install a regular valve in it's place. I dump by opening the slide door in the basement as the valve is right there just inside the door. It's easy opening and closing. I have no intentions of re installing a cable pull in the water control area. I dread when the grey valve finally goes.

jcasey · 12-25-2010, 01:09 PM

You said, you "installed a regular valve." I am curious what you mean, what kind of a valve is regular, and where was it installed?

**wingnut60** · 12-25-2010, 04:33 PM

Believe he means he put just the valve in the line, no cable. The valve has a handle, and now he just reaches in behind the sliding door and pulls it open. The black valve is pretty handy to reach.
Joe

chevman · 12-25-2010, 08:15 PM

We don't have the cable style but the veg oil does work for our pull and push valves. I am gettting ready to do it again just because.
chevman

Motor31 · 12-26-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Believe he means he put just the valve in the line, no cable. The valve has a handle, and now he just reaches in behind the sliding door and pulls it open. The black valve is pretty handy to reach.
Joe

What he said. ^

Easy to operate, very little force required and a side benefit is that I'm now usually a little farther away from the hose and the unavoidable smell when the black tank is opened. I'm also a bit farther away should there be a problem with the hose fittings if it leaks.

Jack in Alaska · 12-26-2010, 08:48 PM

A better lubricant on the cables is TRIFLO. It comes in a spray can, very expensive but an excellent lubricant. WD40 is not a good lubricant but it is a displacer of moisture.
My black valve is a 2 finger pull in and out but the gray valve takes both hands and pulling and then pushing as hard as I can. I am not looking forward to having to replace it when it eventually "craters".
I have tried the oil in the tank thing and it helps for a time or two but there has to be a root cause of the valve being so tight.

edt · 02-25-2011, 07:25 PM

I don't know if all the gray valves are in the same place but I took down the cover below the belly pan and took down the cable valve and replaced it with a pull one and seems to work fine. Don't even think will need extention. Flat piece of rubber will close cover whole in belly pan. cut my hand will send pictures next week.

rotaxman · 02-26-2011, 12:55 AM

I just got through trying to reroute the cables on both of my dump valves on this junk 09 needless to say it did no good what so ever.

It is no wonder they work the way they do with the ignorant installation done by the Amish craftsmen at DRV.

When the weather gets a little better here if I haven't got rid of this thing I'm going to re plumb the whole sewer system move the Grey water piping up to 3 inch like it should be install electric valves and do away with that stupid plastic bubble on the belly of the trailer.

As always good camping

Joyce and Jerry

BlueSkyRanch · 03-06-2011, 09:47 AM

I see more and more people replace their valves with electric ones. If you replaced your valves and plan to attend the 2011 SOITC Rally in Sevierville, TN, would you be willing to show attendees what you did?