Mobile or Elite

OK, here it is:
 

Attachments

  • BFA14D91-A113-4113-AD73-8CFA14DB267B.jpg
    BFA14D91-A113-4113-AD73-8CFA14DB267B.jpg
    213.6 KB · Views: 12
Not sure how all this always comes down to the weight ticket from Cummins--

From what I see, the truck axles have 15520 on them when towing; 14000 GVWR?
the trailer axles have 17440 on them; 16000 GAWR total?
Edit: this is on Cummins' weight ticket, not Clevs'
 
Last edited:
My weights:

Front Axle----5460, 540 under
Rear Alxe-----9120, 780 under
Gross----14580, 580 over before adding 55 gal tank--+420 more/less
Trailer----16000, dead on rating, wish I had more axle...

Gross all---30580

Everything seems to be working fine, the discs really stop this combo in quick fashion.
Will be at Morryde soon to check IS out.
Trailer seems to be clearing the bed sides ok since I cut the flanges off the pin box side plates.
 
I understand exactly what Mtntrek is saying. Have been saying it all along. It does not matter how many extras you add to a Mobile, it is still a mobile. You will NOT recover your money in the end. You may hold out for a long time and recover some of it, but not much. No one cares. People will only pay the minimum they can. Easy to prove, just follow the for sale ads.

Bill
 
Since I just visited the CAT scales I'll offer one more for reference.


Steer Axle - 5060
Drive Axle - 7760
Trailer Axles - 12960
Total Axles - 25780


We have removed many items not used in years. I use to carry spare leaf springs, 2 complete hubs and shackles and hardware. Since MorRyde IS not needed. Makes a difference.
 
I found out about the WiFi Ranger too late to add it to my build.

I don't think you really missed anything there unless the older ranger stuff works better then the new stuff.


At the time our dealer said the Fiberglass roofs were a problem. Never had a rubber roof issue and the rubber has a much longer warranty so it was a no brainer.

Electric steps were a problem, really like our solid manual steps. did not want the macerator toilet either and have been more than happy with the comfort height elongated porcelain Sealand unit.

Rubber, EPDM - 10-20 year warranty through through manufacturer (if you can get it warranted)
Fiberglass - warranty through the manufacturer, DRV, so limited to the 1 year.

Durability - I went with the fiberglass, I'm sure it will out perform rubber/EPDM during my ownership.


Trailer seems to be clearing the bed sides ok since I cut the flanges off the pin box side plates.

I was ready to cut the 'wings' off my side plates too. But when I lowered my pin box for truck clearance, I found those side plates are just big flat washers, and the holes didn't line up with the new pin box position. So for now the plates are sitting in my garage. BTW, when I lowered the pinbox most of the lock washers failed. So I ordered quality, all Grade 8 bolts, nuts flat and lock washers to replace the factory hardware.
 
Good idea on the G8 parts. Early on in my thoughts to cut th flanges, a welder told me the outer plates aren’t really needed. Hope that continues to work for you.
 
??? Three years ago I was advised NOT to cut off the wings. I see zero purpose for them but was told it voided the whole frame warranty if you cut them off. After reading this I'm going to cut those dam* things off. Thanks
 
I am just asking because most people have no idea what their rig weighs and are shocked to find they are near or at 25% pin if they are full time.

My 36SB3 weighed 18k+ with 4,500# pin.
 
There are twice as many holes in the trailer pin box mount then there are on these side plates.

I moved my pin box up one hole but there is not enough room at the top for these plates to go back on.
 

Attachments

  • Pin_box_9 copy.jpg
    Pin_box_9 copy.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 20
Glenn,
Way back with my '05 Suites, got the same "no" from Morryde about the flanges on the plates--years later, and now on the '15, disaster has not yet struck because I cut them off.
Still don't know if the plates are MR product or a Lippert product.
 
There are twice as many holes in the trailer pin box mount then there are on these side plates.

I moved my pin box up one hole but there is not enough room at the top for these plates to go back on.

Wish you could edit on this forum........

To be clear, I 'lowered' my MOR/ryde pinbox one hole to 'raise' my trailer off the truck. I was not able to reinstall the plates because I could not move the plates 'up' one hole due to the way the holes are punched.

There are twice as many mounting holes on the trailer frame then there are on these side plates.

I would have had to lower the pin box at least two holes in order to use the side plates, maybe, I didn't try it.
 
Still don't know if the plates are MR product or a Lippert product.

Good question.

ALL of the important details regarding our MS are on these removable plates, including the VIN - go figure.

The last 6 of the VIN is punched into the actual frame mounted side plates, and not very well at that.
 

Attachments

  • Pin_box_4 copy.jpg
    Pin_box_4 copy.jpg
    421.1 KB · Views: 14
I also added a grade 8 to the remaining hole on each side but had to drill it just a little. I also noticed your New York inspection sticker. Texas has always had a law requiring an inspection on anything on the road, but I knew of no one that ever had anything inspected, except for their actual vehicle. Registration was a two part process; get the inspection and have a sticker placed on the vehicle, and then get the registration/renewal and place that sticker on the window. I've been in Texas since ~1972, and have always had RV's and flatbeds, but never had them inspected, was never stopped, questioned, nor ticketed. Then, a few years ago, the law changed. Now, to renew the registration, you must get the vehicle inspected, take the inspection papers to the DMV, and then they will issue you one sticker; a combination of the inspection and the tag renewal. That was financially brilliant. Can you imagine the millions, maybe billions, of revenue that the state started collecting from $7.50 on each inspected vehicle with that plan? But, now, I have two of vehicles and the DRV registered to my LLC in Montana and don't have to worry with it anymore.
 
Last edited:
I bought the trailer in New York. New York law (so I am told) requires a New York State inspection and registration take place and the decal affixed. So I paid for that inspection when I finalized the papers. Was not much.

I live in New Jersey. We do not have any type of inspection nor require any type of decals for registration. We used to years ago require a decal for the plate that shows the registration was paid for. But that just led to other problems. Was a problem keeping plates from being stolen on boat trailers because of that decal.

I just pay an annual registration fee, no decal, no inspection. $28
 
$28 bucks; that’s cheap. Texas inspection is $7.50 to the inspection station, and another $7.50 to the state along with the renewal fee of $87, I think. Anyway about $100 per year for a full sized truck.
 
Yearly:

$28.00 most trailers, no inspection
$75.00 F-350, no inspection
$65.00 Harley, no inspection
$71.50 Lincoln MKC, inspection every 5 years
 
Good question.
ALL of the important details regarding our MS are on these removable plates, including the VIN - go figure.
The last 6 of the VIN is punched into the actual frame mounted side plates, and not very well at that.
I find this curious too, as a dubious person "could falsify" the identity of a trailer masking it's history.
Wondering if at some time mfr. noticed deformation on the pin head, etc. or in order to increase capacities or some other notion?
Wonder if one might modify or fabricate less (to the bed rail) intrusive plates? Does seem as if they are added for a stiffener.
Interesting, and requires some more research.
Similarly, I added the sixth GR-8 hardware to the existing GR-8. Although I only had to loosen the initial bolts, and slightly align the pin box, for the proper bolt clearance. Then replaced the lock washers on all, and re-torqued.
 
One of the problems with these removable side plates is that if you lower the pinbox one hole the side plate has to be lowered as well, since there are fewer holes. IF try and use the side plate it will be one hole lower then the pin pin box was moved and you will have a 1" between the top of the plate and the bottom of the overhang.

On my list of things to do is contact DRV and/or Lippert to see if plates are available with the holes punched in alternate location.

An alternative would be to get side plates prior to punching and have them done locally.
 
TX trailer inspection is basically a joke, and as mentioned, a money generator. Biggest hassle is getting the trailer to the shop to inspect it. Has been very easy to make friends with an oil change shop and just take the VIN to him and generate the inspection--happens all over the state.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom